We assembled from far and wide on the afternoon of Friday 1 July 2011 for the 2011 Master’s weekend in the splendid city of Exeter. The first event was Evensong in Exeter Cathedral, where we were very privileged to be seated in the choir stalls. Fortunately, speaking for at least myself and therefore anyone in earshot, we were not called upon to sing but were treated to the wonderful singing of the men of the Cathedral choir.
Following Evensong, the party divided into groups for either a ground level tour of the Cathedral or a roof tour. I am reliably informed that the ground tour was indeed very interesting but I myself joined a roof tour. It seemed to almost become some illicit adventure at Harry Potter’s school, “Hogwarts”, – all stone corridors, spiral staircases, secret passages, panoramic views over the parapets and our guide solemnly warning us of numerous “hazards” ahead. We half expected to come across a serpent, a three-headed dog or a dementor or two …! The hazards however were no more than low head room, sharp cable retainers and some greasy wenches (perhaps left over from some bygone age …?); though I only saw a few greasy winches and thankfully have since had my blocked ear syringed.
After the tours we regrouped in the refectory for a tasty supper before returning to the hotel for some well earned rest.
Saturday dawned warm and sunny, definitely shorts weather! (though oddly nobody else seemed to think so!). We took a coach to Totnes on the River Dart where we boarded the Dart Explorer and set off down stream towards Dartmouth. The river valley was stunningly beautiful - lots of bird life, views over the fields, vineyards and waterside houses which required a lottery win to afford.
The Captain entertained us with amusing anecdotes of all the sights along the way and we relaxed, soaking up the sun and chatting. The Captain was also relaxed, steering most of the way with his feet … though I’m not sure how many other passengers noticed this!
We passed Dartmouth and, as the sea was as calm as a mill pond, sailed out into the English Channel, apparently a real treat for the Captain who informed us that it was rare for him to venture out of the river; now, where were those life jackets??!! The Master, having a nautical background, was now wholly in his element. After a short debate with the Captain he instructed “turn left” - shouldn’t that have been port? Master and Commander, and every bit as dashing as Russell Crowe! We didn’t get to the Far Side of the World, but almost as far as Berry Head before returning to Dartmouth. En route, the Captain continued to point out the local sights including a nudist beach (was that why we turned left? sorry, port), the odd shag (though we were a fair way off shore, so difficult to distinguish - even through binoculars – these small brown diving birds, very similar to cormorants), lots of cormorants, and the undoubted highlight of grey seals sunbathing and swimming around the Mew Stone.
We disembarked at Kingswear and had enough time to buy an ice cream (a very tasty treat for boys and girls of all ages) before the trip by steam train to Paignton, and then coach back to Exeter.
After a short rest it was time to get ready for dinner, traditionally a formal black tie event, held at the Guildhall in Exeter. The Lord Mayor of Exeter welcomed our party in her Parlour with drinks and we were also joined by the Master of the Company of Weavers, Fullers and Shearmen for the evening. We moved into the main hall for dinner, an absolutely splendid setting – medieval wood paneling and stained glass windows – for a very enjoyable dinner. A lovely end to a fantastic day.
Sunday dawned warm and sunny (again), definitely shorts weather (again), and (again) I was in a minority of one (and starting to think I had missed the circular regarding dress code). We all met at Tuckers’ Hall, the home of the Company of Weavers, Fullers and Shearmen and another superb surviving medieval building in Exeter. The Master of that Company welcomed us and one of their liverymen gave a very entertaining and informative talk on the history of that Company and of the cloth trade in Exeter, which, sadly, had declined rapidly after the industrial revolution (no coal in Devon) having previously rivaled the Lancashire and Yorkshire mill towns. We learnt amongst other things that Fullers were Tuckers and Tuckers were Fullers, a very important element of the process of cloth production. And what did Fullers or Tuckers do exactly? Well, they pounded the fleeces in urine to soften the wool for spinning. Lovely! And what else did they do, what were the subtleties of the trade? Nothing else, just pounded the fleece in urine until it was soft. So, perhaps a candidate for the shortest apprenticeship of the era …
Next we divided into three parties for guided tours around the City. All very interesting, there is much wonderful architecture to admire and history to learn. Two of the parties went down to the historic quayside where the guides had some competition from the dragon boat racing and Morris Men, but all turned up present and correct for lunch at the White Ensign Club. Here we were entertained by the “up spirits” ceremony, a re-enactment of the daily issue of rum which was a feature of navy life from 1731 to 1970 (officially). Now I would hazard a guess that it had been a long time since most in our party had partaken of rum – perhaps a fad in early drinking years or when all other sources of alcohol had been exhausted at a party. But we rose to the occasion to join in and actually very pleasant it was! So enjoyable that some rose to the occasion several times – “Queens”, being the correct term for another tot from the “rum fanny”. These navy folk certainly have a way with words! The White Ensign Club made us very welcome, and extended an open invitation to the Company’s liverymen to visit if in Exeter again – I recommend you take advantage, not least for the very reasonable bar prices and the fantastic collection of services memorabilia.
Following lunch, Sally and I had to depart (the demands of work) but the remaining party enjoyed dinner in our hotel and a talk on the Sunday evening on Dartmouth Naval College by Commander David Linguard.
I would like to take this opportunity on behalf of all the participants to thank the Master, Rory Jackson, and his wife Cherry for all their efforts organizing such a very enjoyable weekend, including such lovely weather.
David Turner
14 July 2011. |
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